For additional weather information please look at the following resources:
All climbers should be aware of the elements of risk associated with climbing on Mt. Adams. While some dangers are more likely to occur during particular seasons it’s important to be familiar with each type and how to avoid, prevent, or mitigate the risk associated.
Elevation Sickness (AMS)
What is it?
- Acute mountain sickness (AMS), or elevation/altitude sickness as it is more commonly known, is an illness that can affect mountain climbers at high altitudes, usually above 8,000′.
- Symptoms of mild to moderate AMS may include:
- Difficulty sleeping
- Dizziness or light-headedness,
- Loss of appetite
- Nausea or vomiting
- Rapid pulse
- Shortness of breath with exertion
- Symptoms of severe AMS include:
- Blue color to the skin or gray/pale complexion
- Chest tightness or congestion
- Coughing up blood
- Decreased consciousness or withdrawal from social interaction
- Cannot walk in a straight line
- Shortness of breath at rest.
Why does it happen?
- It is caused by reduced air pressure and lower oxygen levels at high altitudes.
When is it likely to occur?
- You are at higher risk for elevation sickness if you live at or near sea level and travel to a high altitude or if you have experienced it before.
- The faster you climb to a high altitude, the more likely you will get elevation sickness.
How can it be mitigated?
- Drink plenty of fluids
- Avoid alcohol
- Eat regular meals high in carbohydrates
- Climb the mountain gradually, climb down (descend) to a lower altitude if symptoms develop.
- Acclimatize at a higher elevation overnight (Lunch Counter).
- Acetazolamide (Diamox) can assist with breathing, reduce mild symptoms, and increase the body’s ability to acclimatize.
- Dexamethasone (Decadron) can reduce swelling in the brain.
Rock / Ice Fall
What is it?
- Rock / ice fall occurs when surfaces holding rock, dirt, ice, or snow in place are unable to hold their current formation and begin tumbling down the mountain.
Why does it happen?
- This can be due to the warmth of the sun, strong wind, or vibrations from the earth or other climbers.
- The Cascades are mostly composed of rotten rock piles loosely held together by snow, ice or convenience – in other words, don’t consider the ground beneath the snow and ice to be solid.
When is it likely to occur?
- Rock fall is most common in the Summer and Fall.
- Ice fall is most common in the Winter and Spring.
- Plan to be off the summit before peak rock / ice fall danger time (12 to 4 pm)
How can it be mitigated?
- Get an alpine start (anytime between 4 to 7 am from Lunch Counter).
- Starting early will help you get up and down the mountain before the sun comes out and the rock / ice fall danger increases.
- Always wear a helmet on the upper slopes of the mountain.
What is it?
- A crevasse is a deep, open crack that can occur in large glaciers.
- Crevasses can range in size – from a few inches to several feet in width and tens or hundreds of feet in depth.
Why does it happen?
- Crevasses form as a result of glacial movement and stress in the surrounding landscape.
When is it likely to occur?
- Crevasses do not typically appear on Mt. Adams’ South Side route, but they can emerge on the summit.
- The Mazama Glacier – further east – can have significant crevasse exposure.
- Crevasses can occasionally become filled in during the winter and gradually become more exposed through the spring and summer.
How can it be mitigated?
- If you do encounter a crevasse proceed with caution and try to navigate around rather than over it.
What is it?
- When you think you can chew seven pieces of gum, but you can only chew six.
- Mt. Adams is often characterized as an easy hike, or a “walk up” by some accounts, and while many inexperienced / ill equipped climbers are successful, this is not a climb for those lacking high altitude experience.
Why does it happen?
- They might say: “I’ve never climbed before, but I heard it was easy so I’ll give it a shot and see what happens.”
- They could also say: “I’ve climbed Mt. Adams before, it will be even easier this time.”
- Inappropriate or the absence of specific gear required for a given situation will increase climber risk.
- Lack of knowledge on the use of climbing equipment increases climber risk.
- Lack of ability to properly assess a dangerous situation and/or potential risk increases climber risk.
When is it likely to occur?
- Underestimation is most likely to occur when climbers have neglected to thoroughly understand the risks involved with climbing Mt. Adams.
- Some say… “bro” culture has a strong impact on the accurate assessment of risk and danger, but sometimes it comes down to pure negligence or even a simple mistake which can happen to even the most experienced climbers
How can it be mitigated?
- Climbers should become as knowledgeable as possible about the route, conditions, risks, and up-to-the minute weather patterns on Mt. Adams prior to a climb.
- Constantly re-assess risk and perceived danger as the climb progresses.
- Proper attire & climbing gear, emergency equipment, backup plans communicated to people not on the mountain.
What is it?
- Climbers may pass you quickly, stop in front of you, fall and slide into you, drop debris or equipment, etc. – In other words – Despite your best efforts, other climbers must be taken seriously as a variable of risk.
Why does it happen?
- Improved weather during the Spring and Summer months attracts more climbers, especially to the “easier” south route.
- Whenever there are a lot of climbers together in a relatively small area there is the potential for danger.
When is it likely to occur?
- Spring and Summer seasons – especially from Memorial Day through July.
How can it be mitigated?
- Move quickly, carefully and efficiently through chutes.
- Yield to uphill traffic while descending.
- Wait behind slower climbers, don’t pass unless they give you the OK.
- Pass quickly and well to the side of other climbers / teams.
- Give other climbers and teams lots of space.
- Travel single file.
- Be patient
- Be polite.
|Permit||Cost||> 7,000′||< 7,000′|
|Northwest Forest Pass||$5-30||Yes|
- Yes, if climbing above 7,000′ in Mt. Adams Wilderness between May 1 and September 30.
- No, if climbing below 7,000′ in Mt. Adams wilderness.
- No, if climbing between October 1 and April 30.
- $15 per person for a Weekend Climbing Pass (Fri-Sun) – Single trip
- $10 per person for a Weekday Climbing Pass (Mon-Thurs) – Single trip
- Free to people under 16 years of age
- Where to acquire:
- Additional Info: USDA.gov – Cascades Volcano Pass
- Yes, if traveling below 7,000′ in Mt. Adams Wilderness.
- Technically, since the Cold Springs Campground is at 5,570′, you will be traveling below the elevation threshold initially.
- Mt. Adams Wilderness access
- Where to acquire:
- Free, self issue, no quota
- Available at all trailheads and Ranger District offices.
- More info: USDA.gov
Northwest Forest Pass
- No, if a Climbing Permit has been purchased.
- Otherwise, yes.
- Vehicle trailhead parking
- Pricing info: USDA.gov – Recreation Passes & Permits
Climbing is a physically demanding activity, requiring proper conditioning and training. In addition to the strenuous activity of walking uphill with weight on your back, you will be breathing less oxygen due to the elevation. With less oxygen your muscles will be working at a diminished capacity.
Before climbing Mt. Adams, you should go on several training hikes. These hikes should consist of elevation gains of 5,000-7,000 feet and distances of 10-12 miles to simulate the slope of Mt. Adams. Locally these are climbs such as Mount Defiance, Table Mountain, Dog Mountain, and Hamilton Mountain to name a few. Climbing other mountains like Mt. St. Helens or Mt. Hood will give you an idea of what it’s like to climb at elevation. During these hikes, if possible, carry the equipment you will climb with. If you do not own all the equipment you will need, put other items in to simulate weight. A pack of 30-40 pounds is average for a Mt. Adams climb.
A person who exercises regularly and is in good physical health should plan on doing 5-10 of these sorts of hikes before a climb. Those who do not get regular exercise or have other health problems should consult their doctor for an exercise routine appropriate for them, and slowly add in hikes with elevation and a weighted pack.
Every climber should also be trained and practiced in self arrest, crampon techniques, first aid and navigation. These are skills you will need for the climb. For an overnight trip, it is important that each climber have a proper shelter, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad for alpine camping. Remember that the safety of every climber on the mountain is at risk whenever a single climber is unprepared.
A typical 2-day schedule for a south side climb of Mt. Adams might look like this:
- 7:00 AM – Arrive at Cold Springs Campground (5,570′).
- Check in, organize gear and use the restroom.
- 8:00 AM – Depart from South Climb trail head.
- 8:40 AM – Arrive at Timberline Campground (6,267′).
- Take a break – Eat a snack, drink water.
- Evaluate whether the Summer or Winter approach appears more feasible.
- 10:30 AM – Arrive near South Butte checkpoint (7,750′).
- Take another break, check weather and visibility.
- If either is poor consider waiting for better conditions, turning around, or use map & compass to follow bearings to Lunch Counter.
- Depending on conditions and season it might make sense to put on crampons or snowshoes.
- 12:45 PM – Arrive at Lunch Counter (9,281′).
- Setup camp & rest.
- Melt snow for water.
- Eat food, drink water.
- 6:00 AM – Wake up.
- Prepare a high calorie breakfast.
- Pre-hydrate with at least a liter of water.
- Prepare gear – We recommend you start with crampons, helmet, and ice axe/trekking poles.
- 7:30 AM – Depart from Lunch Counter.
- Evaluate the condition of your group and yourself as you climb.
- 9:50 AM – Arrive at Pikers Peak / False Summit (11,555′).
- Take a break – Eat a snack, drink water.
- 11:00 AM – Arrive at Old Lookout (12,257′)
- Many people stop here, however just a 5 minute walk away is the true summit (12,280′)
- 11:05 AM – Arrive at Summit (12,280′)
- Take pictures! Eat snacks! Drink water!
- 12:00 PM – Depart from Summit.
- Glissade down the mountain for bonus fun points.
- 12:30 PM – Arrive back at Pikers Peak.
- This is where the glissading gets serious due to the steeper grade. Be careful on this section as speeds can get out of control very quickly.
- 1:00 PM – Arrive back at Lunch Counter.
- Eat lunch and rehydrate.
- Pack up camp and prepare to descend down the mountain.
- 2:00 PM – Depart from Lunch Counter.
- 3:30 PM – Arrive back at Cold Springs Campground.
Cold Springs Campground to Lunch Counter
Mt. Adams south side climbs can be completed in a full day (10 – 12 hours), however most climbers plan it as a weekend trip taking place over 2-3 days. Scheduling additional time is beneficial because it allows for acclimatization at altitude and a chance to recover from fatigue at Lunch Counter.
Typically climbers leave the Cold Springs Campground between 6am and 9am, either having camped overnight or driven in early. The trailhead campground can become crowded during peak climbing season (May – July). Some climbers prefer to hike a bit further up to the Timberline Campground area for a bit more solitude.
A start time should be established based on an estimated pace and your desired time to make it to camp. Someone who has prepared properly to climb can average 1,000 vertical feet per hour, at that rate it will take a roughly 4 hours to reach Lunch Counter. We recommend starting in the morning while the snow is still mostly solid and temperatures are comfortable. By the afternoon the first section of the climb becomes very slushy in the spring and summer and there is very little protection from the sun. Temperatures allegedly reached 110 °F (43 °C) at an elevation above 12,000′ before plummeting 12 hours later to −48 °F (−44 °C). Although that may have been an extreme case there is truth in the dramatic shift in temperature which can occur at elevation. According to the Mt. Adams Ranger Station, a balmy, average temperature of 77 F in June can drop to below freezing within hours of the sun setting.
If you are in good shape and have trained to climb Mt. Adams you can estimate 3-6 hours to Lunch Counter. Other climbers should prepare for a longer climb, maybe 5 – 8 hours.
The initial section of the trail from Cold Springs to Timberline Campground is fairly straightforward and well-marked. However, about the time that you intersect with the Round the Mountain trail sign the route can become more difficult to identify. Pay attention to where the established path appears to be and monitor where other climbers are ascending to or descending from. Being aware of your surroundings, recognizing landmarks, and getting your bearings tend to be very important to arriving at Lunch Counter safely via this route.
Winter or Summer Route?
Despite the naming convention one route should not be chosen over the other simply based on season. Both routes are roughly the same distance and difficulty. The Winter route is labeled as such because it requires a significant snow pack to allow for safe climbing. When melted out the Winter route has many sections that require scrambling on rock and scree. The Summer Route follows Suksdorf Ridge after passing South Butte. Both routes have a fairly consistent, gradual uphill grade and are best climbed when a significant snow pack is present.
When picking one route over the other we recommend evaluating current conditions. If one route visibly has more snow pack than the other that will potentially offer a smoother climb. Consider the route that other climbers are taking. Talk with climbers who are coming down the mountain and get a better understanding of what lies ahead.
The Lunch Counter is a wide open area that, while relatively flat, still has a slight upward grade to it. Rolling hills of rock, snow, and ice form protective barriers for climbers. One of the most interesting aspects of Lunch Counter are the tent sized rock shelters that visitors have built to block out the wind and snow. Claiming a shelter is desirable but, like Cold Springs Campground, they fill up fast during peak climbing season.
At this point most climbers begin setting up camp, preparing meals, and melting down snow to replenish water supplies. It is very important to drink enough water and monitor conditions relating to elevation sickness. Even at Lunch Counter (9,281′) minor symptoms of AMS can develop and may only get worse the higher you climb. Early arrivals may opt to take a nap in the afternoon after an exhausting morning climb. In the evening they will wake up, catch a beautiful sunset, and then get more sleep in preparation for an alpine start for the summit.
Lunch Counter to Summit
The day has finally arrived! It’s going to be cold and you will not want to get out of your warm sleeping bag but you have to.
It’s important to begin sipping on a liter of water immediately upon waking. Preparing a hot, high calorie meal is great for bringing warmth and energy to your body in preparation for the push to the summit.
Expect between a 3 -4 hour climb from Lunch Counter to the summit. If your goal is to catch the sunrise from the top then you will want to set an alarm accordingly. The route is long and straight – during the day you may see a string of block dots; at night it may be a line of head lamps. During peak climbing season the trail is well establish and may even have established steps that do not require crampons. Either way, we typically recommend putting on crampons, helmet, and equipping either a long ice axe or trekking poles at Lunch Counter.
From Lunch Counter, Pikers Peak appears to be the summit but the true summit is just out of view behind it. The climb will be long and grueling and by most accounts it’s the most monotonous part of the entire route. The good news is that if you just keep putting one foot in front of the other eventually you will make it to the top. The bonus is that these long straight sections offer fantastic glissading. As you’re climbing glissade chutes may be visible on other side of the climbing path.
Reaching Pikers Peak allows for a short break, but this is the point where the wind can really start to pick up. Eat a quick snack and continue to sip water. Once your climbing party has caught their breath continue the slow trudge toward the true summit. There will be a slight dip in the terrain as you climb down into a large bowl that exists between Pikers Peak and the true summit.
The top should be within view now. Expect another 1 – 1.5 hours to reach the summit from Pikers Peak.
There is an icy lump on the top most ridge where most people stop. During most of the year this snow covered lump conceals the old fire lookout which has now collapsed into rubble. It offers a small amount of wind protection on a relatively flat, open summit ridge. The true summit is actually only a few yards a way and, due to the flatness and bright white color of the terrain, is difficult to perceive. Other way, congratulate yourself and other members of your party – you made it!
Descending from the summit to the parking lot will take you approximately half the time it took you to summit. If you reached the summit in 10 hours it may take you 3-5 hours to get back. Descending is a challenge in and of itself. You will be tired, and using a whole new set of muscles. But gravity is on your side, and there will be far fewer breaks (perhaps just the one to take off your crampons). Generally you should descend the route that you came up.
Glissading down the mountain can be one of the quickest ways of descending, however it can be dangerous without the use of an ice ax to manage speed. Be aware of other people glissading in the same chute as you, both above and below. If you need to stop get out of the chute. If someone has stopped ahead of you then slow your speed or prepare to stop.
Mt. Adams can be climbed any time of year, depending on your chosen route. However, climbers using the south side routes should consider climbing from mid-May to mid-July, depending on route conditions. Earlier and there is a higher likelihood that the road is closed due to snow; any later and the climb becomes more of a rock/scree scramble. Weather and mountain conditions should be the ultimate indicator of when to climb.
Average Temperature (°F)
Average Precipitation (in.)
Data was collected at the Mt. Adams Ranger Station (1,957′) in Trout Lake, Washington and reflects an average value from monthly observations for the period 6/01/1948 to 12/31/2005.
The actual values at higher elevations – such as Cold Springs Campground (5,570′), Lunch Counter (9,281′), and Mt. Adams summit (12,280′) – will have significantly cooler high and low temperatures and snow depth will be greater. Therefore, values should be approximated for higher elevations.
Mt. Adams is located within a wilderness area, and guiding permits are restricted to a handful of approved guiding operations. Here is a list of a few of the local guiding services:
Guided climbs are typically only offered during the peak climbing months between May and September.
Mt. Adams is fairly remote in comparison to other mountains like Hood, St. Helens, or Rainier. However, there are some lodging options in the nearby town of Trout Lake, WA that are only a 45 minute drive from Cold Springs Campground and the South Climb trailhead. Even staying in the more distant Hood River / White Salmon area in the Columbia river Gorge only increases the drive time to 1 hour and 15 minutes.
Climbers often leave lodging in Vancouver, Portland, or the Columbia River Gorge at a time where they can arrive at the Cold Springs Campground trailhead in the morning (6 – 9am) with the intention of making it to Lunch Counter in the early afternoon (12 – 4pm) to setup camp.
Most climbers choose to drive from one of the nearby towns or cities, but if you’d prefer to camp a bit closer there are numerous options in the Mt. Adams Wilderness area. If you’re traveling in an RV you have several camping options, including (if you’re brave enough) parking your rig in the Cold Springs Campground parking area.
If you’d like a longer stay on Mt. Adams, you may also camp on the mountainside. If you choose to camp above timberline, be sure you away from areas prone to rock and ice fall, and know the avalanche conditions. The safest place to camp is Cold Springs Campground, but some climbers hike 1-2 hours up to Timberline Campground to camp the first night.
Lunch Counter is the most common place to setup a base camp on the mountain. This is where climbers rest up and prepare for a summit attempt the following morning. Camping gear and other items are usually stashed here for a light weight climb on the last section of the route.
The route below starts in Portland and ends at Cold Springs Campground. This is the popular trail head for the South Climb route.
- The toll bridge crossing from Hood River, OR to White Salmon, WA requires a fee of $1.00. An alternative route to avoid this fee is to cross over the Columbia River on interstate 205 and take highway 14 on the Washington side.
- 6-7 miles north of Trout Lake, WA the road will transition from pavement to gravel.
- 3-4 miles after this transition you will reach Morrison Creek Campground, at this point there are only 2.8 miles to go.
- The final 2.8 miles section is narrow and can become heavily rutted and rocky. It can become icy, muddy, and challenging to maneuver with low clearance, non-4×4 or AWD vehicles.
|Overnight Gear||Trekking Poles||Avalanche Probe|
|First Aid Kit||Stove|
Our required, recommended, and optional gear selections are based on a well-rounded approach to mountaineering on Mt. Adam’s south climb route. This gear strategy aims to minimize risk while maintaining minimal weight. Climbers should evaluate what gear to bring based on current conditions and individual risk comfort level.
A miscalculated clothing strategy on Mt. Adams can mean- at best, numb apendages; at worst, freezer burned feet.
The best approach for Mt. Adams, as with other 10,000’+ peaks, is the 4-layer system: Base-layer, mid-layer, shell, insulation. Do not wear cotton – All layers should be either synthetic, wool, or another breathable material.
Base-layer – Top and Bottom – This can best be defined as a long-sleeve compression shirt and synthetic leggings. Your base layer should allow for a great range of mobility, moisture wicking, fast-drying, and be ultra-warm.
Mid-layer – Top and Bottom – Also known as the soft shell layer, this is the layer you should be able to climb in under ideal weather conditions. Similar to the base layer these items should maintain optimal breath-ability, heat/moisture dissipation, and retain adequate warmth. For example, this might be a fleece jacket and hiking pants.
Shell – Top and Bottom – This is the layer you put over everything else. While it may not provide much insulation, it’s primary purpose is to keep wind, rain, sleet, snow, ice, and any other undesirable elements away from your underlying layers. An affordable shell layer might be the Adidas Outdoor Wandertag jacket and O’Neill Hammer snow pants. A shell layer with more advanced, light-weight, protective materials might be the Arc’teryx Beta AR jacket and Mountain Hardware Torsun pants.
Insulation – This is your deep cold layer. It comes in to play when conditions start getting chilly or you are not moving enough to maintain a comfortable body temperature. This is typically a down jacket (aka the puffy jacket). We personally like and have used the Black Diamond Cold Forge Parka and the Arc’teryx Thorium SV hoody.
Gloves / mittens – We recommend a fleece glove or liner paired with a deep cold mitten. In most conditions you will find that your hands retain quite a bit of warmth with a decent fleece glove and that the mittens function as a great backup for when the wind picks up or the weather degrades. Why mittens? Because by not separating your fingers from one another in a traditional glove they stay warmer by sharing their heat. The REI fleece grip gloves paired with the REI Deep Cold mittens are a fantastic combination in most conditions. A similar combo is offered by Outdoor Research with their fleece gloves and Meteor mitts.
Hats – Fact: The majority of heat loss occurs through the top of your head. A wide-bill trucker hat may give you “bro” points, but it retains minimal heat. Beanies or other insulated head gear is the recommended choice.
Balaclava – Not to be confused with the Greek dessert (baklava), a balaclava is like a ski mask which protects the exposed parts of your face to the elements. You would be surprised at how much of an improvement even an inexpensive balaclava will make in cold or windy conditions.
Socks – Arguably one of the most important selections behind boots. Your feet will be taking a beating while climbing Mt. Adams and ensuring that they stay warm, dry and comfortable is a primary factor in having a successful summit. Long wool socks are highly recommended. Bring a second pair in case the first gets soaked through from sweat and snow.
Boots – A quality pair of boots can make or break a successful summit attempt. Considering the amount of abuse that your feet will experience on this climb, selecting a boot that is both comfortable and supportive is crucial. You will also need a boot which is compatible with your chosen style of crampons. We really like the La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX boot, but it is possible to make the summit with a great pair of insulated, water-proof hiking boots and shoe spikes under excellent weather conditions.
For most people planning a south climb of Mt. Adams proper overnight gear is a necessity.
Tent / Shelter – A four season tent is recommended at Lunch Counter, however in very good weather conditions a three season tent will pass.
Sleeping Bag – A 0 – 20 degree bag will work under most conditions.
Sleeping Pad – Having an insulated sleeping pad is required in order to get your sleeping bag and body from being in contact with the snow and ice. Do not expect the tent floor to be sufficient thermal insulation even in a four season tent.
In short –
You will burn a tremendous amount of calories climbing Mt. Adams.
Eat before, during, and after the climb. Load up on fats and proteins before the climb as these metabolize more slowly and will give you energy for a longer period.
During the climb: A.B.E. (always be eating). Snack constantly on high carbohydrate foods as these metabolize faster and give you quick bursts of energy. Eating at least one or two snacks per hour avoids large spikes in energy and helps maintain smooth, consistent energy levels.
Keep in mind, roughly 50-100 calories can be burned every 15 minutes depending on your base metabolic rate, speed, grade, and air temperature. In the cold, the body will burn additional calories just to stay warm. For a 2 day climb we burned between 5500 – 6500 calories per day. That’s the equivalent of between 52 – 62 individual Reese’s Peanut Butter cups,
which apparently you can buy in bulk.
It’s also important to be aware that your taste buds may change as you gain elevation. Altitude sickness may actually suppress appetite. In other words, if you only sort of liked a food at base elevation you’re probably not going to like it at high elevation. So bring foods that you know you’ll enjoy. I like sour gummy worms for high elevation expeditions.
After the climb, have a burger, sandwich or something high in fats and protein which helps muscles recover from lots of exercise. Remember your metabolism keeps going for an hour or two after you stop, so that’s the time to binge a little.
Science recommends 1 liter of water be consumed for every hour of high energy activity. For a south side climb that would be 8 – 12 liters (or 2 – 3 gallons), which is the equivalent of 27 – 40 pounds of weight on top of all the other gear you would be carrying.
Similar to food – we recommend the before/during/after strategy. Drink 2-4 liters of water a few hours before you start your climb to saturate your body and reach your muscles. For the actual climb, bring 2-4 liters of water to sip on constantly. Plan on having a water filter or a stove to melt snow to replenish your water supply at Lunch Counter. While a bladder makes constant hydration easier, we recommend Nalgene or Camelbak water bottles to avoid the scenario where your bladder hose freezes preventing you from drinking any water. If you do use a bladder, blow water back into the bladder to help prevent the hose from freezing or purchase a hose insulating layer. Another option would be to have a hybrid water bottle and bladder system in case either method fails. After the climb, have a gallon of water waiting in the car to replenish your reserves.
First Aid Kit
Each climber should carry a medical kit from which they can dispense first aid to themselves or another climber, but you should never depend on another climber to be able to patch you up. Adventure Medical sells a great, light-weight kit that we bring on every outdoor trip.
Climbers who plan their trips carefully get to enjoy Mt. Adams under clear, optimal conditions. However, weather can change rapidly and white out conditions can descend on the mountain much quicker than you can climb down. Having and knowing how to use a map, compass, and altimeter can keep you on course.
Waste bags are provided for free at the Ranger Station check-in. They are used for solid waste disposal and are required for transporting waste off of the mountain.
Gaiters cover the vulnerable tops of your footwear to fully protect your feet and lower legs from the snow, water, dirt and rocks that have a way of sneaking into even the best boots. While not strictly required for Mt. Adams we would never choose to climb without them. Even a less expensive product like the Mountain Hardware High Gaiter offers superb protection in most conditions.
As we’ve lamented on other trips, trekking poles are extremely advantageous to have, especially on mountains. They do more than just provide stability. Trekking poles actually transfer load away from your legs. This is most noticeable on downhill sections where your knees are most likely to take a beating. An affordable pair of trekking poles will do the trick, however if you’re feeling the need to go ultra-light Black Diamond makes a carbon fiber trekking pole. We like and have used both, but the Black Diamond product is mind-bendingly light and strong.
At elevation there is less atmosphere to protect your skin from the sun’s harmful radiation. Combine this with the reflective properties of snow and you can get a fairly severe sunburn without the proper protection. Having a strong sun screen (SPF 40+) or a hat that shades your neck, face, and ears can prevent this. It’s also easy to forget that your lips need protection too. Having lip balm with an SPF rating can go a long way to avoiding puffy, sun-burned lips. Wear sun glasses to protect your eyes as soon as the sun rises.
Most people will be carrying their cell phones when they climb so that they can snap photos of their adventure, but these devices can also serve as locators for lost climbers. In the days prior to wireless phone technology it was common to purchase or rent an avalanche transceiver or mountain locator unit (MLU) which could be used to locate a person in the event of an avalanche. More advanced devices like RECCO reflectors, PLBs, and SPOTS are now available which use GPS and two-way satellite communication to provide emergency personnel with more accurate information about your location.
Additional information about the advantages and disadvantages of these devices is available here.
Because fires are not permitted above timberline, stoves are required for cooking warm meals, melting snow, and boiling water. There are many options available. We personally like the Jetboil Zip Cooking System, as it’s lightweight, stable, compact, and straight forward to operate. Be sure to bring enough fuel to handle the task of both melting snow for supplement water and boiling it for meals or hot drinks.
Acquiring and carrying an ice axe is easy, but knowing how to use it requires skill, familiarity and practice in the art of self arrest. The South Side Route is not a technical snow / ice route, and so we recommend a straight (or slightly curved) handled axe.
When choosing the length of an axe, stand up straight and hold the axe by your side grasping its head between your fingers. The spike (bottom) of the axe should rest by your ankle. A longer axe might be nice as Mt. Adam’s south side is relatively low angle (30 degrees max angle). A shorter axe will require you to bend over to place it, a tiring endeavor. Also, a shorter axe may seem lighter but the difference is usually only an ounce or two. If using a shorter axe or ice tool look into a trekking pole for the other hand.
Your ice axe may come with a leash. This is important in case you do go in to a fall and the ice axe leaves your hand. A leash keeps the ice axe attached to your person either on your wrist or climbing harness allowing you to reel it in and perform a self arrest.
Crampons allow you to grip into solid snow and ice providing stability and traction when you need it most. It is technically possible to reach the summit without full crampons when an established boot track is present. In fact, a significant and noticeable amount of traction can be had from a basic pair of Hillsound shoes spikes.
There are several types of crampons available on the market, but the key is matching the correct crampon binding system to your boot. In fact, REI has a great article describing how to choose the best crampons for your goals.
We highly recommend you pick your boot prior to selecting a crampon because at the end of the day a comfortable, supportive boot is preferable to ill-fitting footwear that you’ve attached some spikes to. One pairing that we’ve had a lot of success with is the La Sportiva Trango boot and Grivel G-12 new-matic crampons. Grivel’s new-matic system has a locking point in the rear and straps in the front to ensure a secure fit to this style of boot.
The primary reason for packing a light-weight shovel on Mt. Adams is to dig out a spot to setup camp. However, if you have reason to be concerned about avalanche safety this may be a requirement. If someone in your party gets buried you only have a matter of minutes to find and dig them out before chances of survival plummet dramatically.
Another reason is to be able to dig yourself a snow cave in the even that bad weather moves in suddenly and you find yourself trapped on the side of the mountain and you do not have another method of creating shelter. Here is a great reasonably priced, durable, light-weight, component shovel which we use.
A climbing helmet is recommended on Mt. Adams because of ice and rock fall danger higher on the climb. Your helmet should meet climbing certifications, meaning that it is rated for impact from above. Biking and ski helmets are not suitable substitutes as they are only rated for side impacts. Unlike Mt. Hood, this danger risk is not as high.
Most climbers on Mt. Adams are not climbing in the dark, however there are always a few early risers who want to catch the sunrise from the summit. Even if you aren’t it’s convenient to have a source of light for nighttime activities. A headlamp with fresh batteries is the best light source.
Climbing gear is optional on Mt. Adam’s south side route. The risk of crevasses, steep slopes, and falling are very low as compare with other routes on the mountain.
Climbing Harness – A climbing harness attaches around your waist and legs, becoming the attachment point for roping up to a team. It can also double as a gear carrying device. A climbing harness is required to rope up to a team.
Climbing Rope – Tied in to the climbing harness, the climbing rope should be chosen carefully as it is the connecting device between each climbers and is your safety net in the event of a fall. A 40 – 50 m dry rope with a diameter between 7.7 and 8.2 mm should be sufficient if you choose to rope up for Mt. Adams’ south side route.
Carabiners – A minimum of 1 locking pear-shaped carabiner for belaying and 2 non-locking carabiners for clipping anchors. We like to carry 3 locking carabiners and 2 non-locking clip carabiners for basic climbs.
Pickets – Ice or snow pickets are used as anchor points to rappel, belay, or perform a crevasse rescue from.
Ice Screws – These act as more secure anchor points that can be screwed into hard snow or ice when a picket cannot be placed reliably.
Similar in design to a trekking or tent pole, an avalanche probe is used to poke the snow to discover where a buried climber or object might be. If the avalanche risk is high then it is recommended to carry one of these.
All climbers should have a plan in place for emergency situations. This includes a plan made with a friend or loved one who is NOT climbing, and a plan for the climber(s).
Friends/Family Plan: It is important that you leave an itinerary with a friend, family member or loved one who is not climbing. This way, should something happen and you are not able to initiate a search, rescuers will be alerted and a search will commence. This plan should include:
- The specific route you will take
- An alternate route in case of emergency
- Timetable for your climb
- A time when you will check in
- A time to initiate a search
- Contact information for Search and Rescue
- Contact information for family members of each climber
With this information in place, the individual you leave it with will know when to expect a phone call, when to worry, who to call and what to tell them. We recommend you pick a time you will check in with your friend/family member that is 1-3 hours after you plan on returning to an area with cell service, typically this is Trout Lake, WA. This way you have flexibility for any delays. Your search initiation time should be 6-10 hours after you were suppose to check in. If you do use this kind of plan DO NOT FORGET TO CALL, even if you are off the mountain safely, call. If you are running late, call. If you blow off the climb and go to a bar in Hood River, call.
Climber(s) Plan: Within your team, or as a solo climber, you must have a plan in case of emergency. It is impossible for us to go through every scenario, but you must work through some common problems and agree on the solutions before you leave. Questions you should consider are:
- What if a storm moves in?
- What if we get lost?
- What if we are behind schedule?
- What if the route conditions are questionable?
- What if someone is fatigued?
- What if someone is injured?
It is vital that every member of your group agree on an answer to these questions. During a climb, ego and adrenaline are high and decisions can be rash. Discuss possible scenarios before you leave and come to a consensus. These are problems best solved in the parking lot, or better yet the drive up. Of course, there are a million things that can happen in a million different ways. You must be able to asses the situation and make good judgments, often on the fly.
- WTA.org – Mount Adams South Climb
- FS.USDA.gov – Climbing Mt. Adams
- FS.USDA.gov – Mt. Adams Summit
- FS.USDA.gov – Cascades Volcano Pass
- SummitPost.org – Mount Adams
- SummitPost.org – South Spur
- WRCC.DRI.edu – Mt. Adams Ranger Station Monthly Climate Summary
- SeattleBackpackersMagazine.com – Mount Adams South Climb
- OregonHikers.org – Mount Adams Summit Hike
- TroutLakeWashington.com – 50 Years After Wilderness Act Mount Adams Still Attracts a Crowd
- SkiMountaineer.com – Mount Adams
- Wikipedia.org – Mount Adams (Washington)
Hello: Some of us are thinking about summiting Mt Adams summit on June 25 (SAT). Could you please help with the following questions:
(1) Do we need ice axe and crampons on that day; Or micro spikes and hiking pole would be suffice?
(2) How is the snow condition around end of June? We don’t have any technical hiking experience. Also we don’t have hiking experience with ice-axe. However, we summitted St Helens, South Sister and Enchantment trails in last two years( to give you an idea of our physical fitness). Please advise.
(3) If late June is not the best time to hike Mt Adams due to snow, then what time is advisable for non-technical climbers like us?
Hi Saad, the end of June is a great time to make a summit attempt on Mt. Adams but the weather can still be hit or miss.
1) Snow pack should still be significant around that time. You should bring an ice ax and crampons to Lunch Counter and then evaluate if they are needed for the remainder of the climb. Usually I would say ‘yes’, but I’ve also made the trek to the summit with shoe spikes and trekking poles. I’ve always carried an ice ax but have only used it for glissading.
2) The south climb on Mt. Adams is a non-technical route. It is, for lack of a better term, “one level harder” than Mt. St. Helens and South Sister in my opinion because of the distance, elevation gain, and summit height.
3) I’ve had many successful summits in June, but you have to pay attention to the weather and make sure that the dates you’re scheduled to be on the mountain will have ideal conditions.
I have been up Mt Adams a number of times, and my one piece of advice to add, is to bring ear plugs for sleeping at night. I much prefer the soft “silicone” like ones that swimmers use, but whatever. The reason is, if the wind decides to whip up at night, your tent will flap loudly, and will sound like machine gun fire going off all night. I camped once in those conditions, and never got a wink of sleep due to the noise. I was younger, and going to the summit the next day without any sleep at all was “doable”. But not fun. Ear plugs make ALL the difference, and I’ve always taken the with me since on Mt Adams. And they let you sleep like a baby through any wind conditions. Mt Adams has all sorts of different moods, but one of them is 40-60 mph winds. It is on the Columbia River gorge, which is world renowned for it’s marvelous winds, as the Hood River windsurfing mecca attests. But they aren’t as much fun on Mt Adams :).
Good recommendation. There have been many times where I wish I had ear plugs on a multi-day climb, either because of high winds or other noisy climbers.
Who can join me on this Sunday-Monday route to Adams
Weird question. What did your group do for bathroom (solid)? Did you bring a privacy tent, or are there spots on Lunch Counter where one can go and pack it up (LNT).
Not a weird question and a good one to ask actually. Any mountaineering proper human waste disposal is key.
Proper technique would dictate that you do you business directly into a wag bag/blue bag and then pack it out with you. There’s definitely a technique to squatting and holding a bag directly to your bum as you go. But, hey it’s part of the mountaineering experience so embrace it.
They usually have bags for this available at the trailhead supplied by the forest service. But, Adams is really busy and I wouldn’t count on there being bags left so bring your own. You can pick them up at outdoor stores.
Lunch counter has plenty of flat spots and big rocks that will provide you privacy during the act.
This is a great resource. We plan on coming down from Canada early July and climbing Adams.
Thank you! I hope you enjoy your climb!
Great guide! Are there any spots level enough for a tent between timberline and lunch counter? We’re considering a moonlight hike in from the trailhead, but may need alternatives to lunch counter depending on weather and time.
Hi Tim, yes – there are quite a few good spots along the route I have noted in the map above called “summer route”. This ridge has a few sections with trees on it where there are flat spots and wind protection that folks setup camp on. There are also a number of rock barriers that have been constructed which provide wind protection and a flat spot can be dug out of the snow to camp. I would recommend bringing a shovel to clear some of these.
The winter route doesn’t have as many spots to camp until you reach lunch counter.
Quick question, for the south climb how many exposed/narrow areas are there? As in narrow places with dead drops on either side.
The summer route has a section of rocky drop offs above the tree line and below Lunch Counter. Other than that, the only other real significant drop off are if you try to explore too far off the beaten path of the south climb route after Pikers’ Peak. Most of the time you will feel like you have plenty of space to hike around.
For a pretty athletic person with a 20 liter pack aiming to do this in 1 day what is the recommended time for starting the hike? Thank you!
Hi Reed, I would broadly estimate that it would take between 10-12 hours round trip to climb Mt Adams in a day from Coldsprings campground. Maybe less if you pack light, have easy climbing conditions, and are in great shape. With that said it then depends on if you want to start at night for colder conditions and a firmer snow pack or if you’re fine with climbing during the day when the temperature is warmer but the snow pack is slushier.
At some point I would like to attempt a day climb of Mt Adams. I’d be curious to know what others’ experiences were that have done this.
Also – is the South Side trail well-marked? Wondering if a group that hasn’t ever done it before will have a hard time finding / following the trail up.
There are a a few signs, rock cairns, and a mostly visible foot path unless a fresh storm has rolled through and dumped a foot or more of snow.
Thank you so much for all of this information! I am trying to decide between hiking Adams in August or September. I read above that snow is largely melted by September and it may not be possible to glissade. Is that true for August as well? When do you think is the latest in the summer you can go and still have the possibility of glissading? I realize weather fluctuates, but am trying to plan ahead and would love your input! Thank you!
Hi Miquelle, there is usually still some snow on Mt. Adams through the summer months around the peak. There *might* still be some glissading potential from the true summit down to the false summit/Pikers Peak, but it will vary depending on weather.
I’m guessing this is a stupid idea, but would it even be remotely possible or advisable to try to hike/run to the summit in late May with just some microspikes for traction?
Hi Sean, for most climbers it is not advisable, but if you have experience climbing Mt Adams, being at elevation, are in great shape, prepared for foreseeable weather conditions, etc. then it is possible to climb Mt. Adams in a day. In May you will need to make sure that the trailhead is accessible otherwise you may have to start further away, which will add mileage and difficulty to the round trip.
As an avid hiker I climbed Mt Adams in one day at 47 yrs young, lighter pack, stashed water, 9 hrs up, 2 down with glissading!
Thank you Aaron, we are going to be a group of 20 minimum
we have a question right now, how bad is the 20 miles road, is that drivable with regular car or do we need 4 by 4
we are willing to rent cars, we are coming form Seattle area
I mean The road to access the south spur trail
we are a group of hikers, hiking most weekends in cascade mostly., we did st helen in November
The road from Trout Lake to the South Climb trailhead is rough, but a 4×4 is not required. A rental car is adequate.
we are a group want to climb Adams on the south trail end of July
do we need crampons and an ice pic at time?
also where is the elevation start , where doesn the road stop please?
we are hoping to do this in a day, we heard 13 hours could be possible….?
It is recommended to carry an ice ax and crampons and to use them when conditions require it. Snow pack in July may have started to thin out, but will likely still be present from Lunch Counter to the summit.
The South Side climbing route starts at Cold springs Campground (5,570′). This is where the driving road stops and the trail begins. It is possible to climb Mt. Adams in a day if you are in good shape physically and your body is prepared for 6,700′ of elevation gain, technically more if you are coming from Portland which is basically at sea level. Expect it to be a full day – 11 hours at least.
Hello, making plans to this in mid to late April, thoughts on going that early? Also trying to figure out road conditions, and resources for that?
Monitor conditions with https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Adams/forecasts/3741 and load the KML for snow depth from https://www.nohrsc.noaa.gov/earth/ into Google Earth. If the snow depth on the road up to Cold Springs is too deep the road will either be gated or not passable with motor vehicles.
What a great site! I am in the processing of planning a trip up Adams in July. I am looking for input on two things. There will be 7 in the party and varying degrees of hiking experience, from very little to Rainer summits. I would consider us a fit group, ages 30-40.
#1 We’re debating a one day summit or two days and overnight at Lunch Counter. 1 day would be hard but require less gear and time. 2 day, less pressure, but would we rather spend an extra night in a hotel celebrating our achievement than in tents without toilets? Input?
#2 Hiking boots. I read such varied info from people using trail shoes to needing more technical shoes? If you have specific input, it would be appreciated!
Hi Sara, these are great questions.
#1 If this is the groups first time climbing Mt. Adams, everyone exercises regularly, is familiar with how their body reacts at altitude, and have all the gear for an overnight trip – then I recommend camping at Lunch Counter and breaking the climb into two days. If the group feels confident in their abilities and wants to travel fast & light, is up to the challenge of ascending 6,700′ in a day without acclimatization, and is prepared for a full (+9 hour) day and climbing and descending then it’s not out of the realm of possibility. It really depends what the group wants to get out of the experience. A benefit to camping at LC is that you can store the extra gear that isn’t needed for the final summit at your camp. Yes, it’s more weight to carry up, but most of it can be dropped at 9k’ and you can ascend to the summit at 12k’ with only the necessary gear. Another benefit to camping at LC is it gives the group an opportunity to cook hot meals and get some rest before the final summit.
#2 In July with less snow pack and warmer temperatures you will more than likely be able to get away with a solid pair of waterproof hiking boots and gaiters. When going with hiking boots it’s wise to pack micro spikes in the event that the terrain above Lunch Counter is icier than expected and traction is needed. If it were earlier in the season, and/or if temperatures were expected to be unusually cold at the time of your climb in July, I would recommend a more traditional climbing boot and crampons.
Hope this helps!
I am trying to summit this Mountain this year but my husband think I need a guide. Can you help me where I can find an experience one? Also what month would be a good one?
Hi Elda, if you look in the Guide Services section of this page there are few references to local guides for Mt. Adams. I have not personally used a guide service, but the first time I attempted I had a friend who had previously climbed Mt. Adams act as my guide. Since then I’ve either gone solo or invited a friend along. The reality is that Mt. Adams has become a very popular climbing and skiing destination in the Spring and Summer months, so much so that you are typically never alone on the mountain. This is especially true on a weekend in June/July when the weather is near perfect. If this is your first climbing experience I would recommend starting with Mt. St. Helens to get an idea of how your body reacts to higher elevations and to test out the gear you’ll need or not need.
Thank you so much for the great information I appreciated your time, effort and kind words. I definitely looking forward to hike Mt. Adams all by myself I hope sometimes in June or July. I’ve hike Mt. Saint Helen four times and once in Mt. hood. I hike twice a month here in Mt .Defiance and I used to run Half Marathon almost every month. I just have to keep going so I don’t loose my endurance and strength. What do you recommend hiking Mt. Rainer with a guide or without? Both this Mountains are big and higher elevations.
Mt Rainier is next level. Ropes training, crevasse rescue techniques, and climbing with a group are a minimum for a safe summit. Hiring a guide makes the climb much more straight forward because you are following their plan and benefiting from their extensive experience on the mountain. The guides will also setup ladders on the more challenging obstacles. My buddy and I did summit Mt Rainier successfully without a guide, but that was after years of preparation and training so that we could be prepared for the worst case scenarios that we might encounter. We’ve only summited Rainier one time so my experience of that mountain is fairly limited at this point in time. I would recommend just climbing to Camp Muir a couple times to check out the mountain and get an idea of the main climbing route.
I would like to thank you for all great information. I took all your words and put it together. July 22,2021 we decide to hike Adams at 4.30 a.m. and finish at exactly 6.45. It was definitely a great experience and of course testing our limits and we learn a lot of respect and greatly appreciated all your input. I definitely had a second thought of Mt. Rainer but my friend says we just need more training accumulating high elevation and definitely going back to Adams as our training. Thank you so much your input was definitely helpful for us. In the We are hiking Mt. Saint Helen almost every month this summer.
That’s incredible to be able to do it in a day, wow! I’m glad his information was helpful.
Your website is awesome! I’m just trying to get as much beta as I can on the winter access. Is it true that the road to Cold Springs is not plowed? How bad exactly is the last “rutty” few miles. When you talked about vehicles are we talking Subaru or pickup territory? How brutal would it be to skin or shoe up a bit of the road if necessary?
Hi Luke, thank you for your questions! Winter access to the Mt Adams south climb route via Cold Springs is limited at best. Snow levels will typically drop all the way down to Trout Lake in the months of December, January, & February with varying accumulation. Mt Adams Road to NF-80 is likely plowed since it provides access to homes around Trout Lake. NF-80 may or may not be plowed as this is a forest road that provides access to Gifford Pinchot National Forest and snow accumulation becomes greater as this road climbs in elevation. It’s possible, with low snow depth, that NF-8040 may be driveable up to Morrison Creek campground which sits at a slightly lower elevation than Cold Springs. The final stretch of road (NF-500) from Morrison Creek, while drivable with a moderate clearance vehicle or a Subaru in dry conditions, may be gated or buried in several feet of snow making it inaccessible to most vehicles. Bottom line, if considering a winter summit attempt – be prepared to skin or shoe up several additional miles of snow covered road.
Wow man, you’re amazing! I’ve been on forums for a year and never found any resources with as much info on approaches for the cascades as you have. Thanks again!
Thanks for the information! What is the opinion on early October climbs? What is your general recommendation for “hard-no” climbing conditions? (knowing it can be hard to predict the weather the mountain gives you at any time) The weather forecasts seem to change a lot within the next 10-14 days for example.
Weather permitting, go for it! The snow pack usually isn’t great. Most of the climb will be on loose rock, but some people are OK with that. The biggest concern is large storms that move in and drop temperatures rapidly while depositing large amounts of precipitation and creating white out conditions. Wind speed is another consideration. Under these conditions I would vote ‘hard no’ on climbing if I can’t see, can’t stand up, or risk freezing to death. It’s all relative to ones’ skillset/gearset, conditioning, and fortitude. Prepare for the worst, hope for the best.
I live in Florida. What would you suggest as an alternative to prep for the elevation?
That’s a tough one. It appears the highest point in Florida is Britton Hill – at 345 ft! There are a couple schools of thought around training for high altitude activities.
Probably the most practical and accessible option is to train your heart and lungs with extended sessions of full body aerobic exercises like running, biking, or swimming. Even at lower altitudes where oxygen is plentiful these activities prepare your body for exertion at higher altitudes where it becomes harder to take in more air.
Another approach I’ve heard of and seen people use is wearing ‘elevation masks’ while engaging in cardio workouts. I have limited knowledge on these masks but I’ve heard that while they restrict air flow to the lungs, they don’t necessarily simulate the change in pressure that occurs at high altitude.
Another tool that some people claim is helpful is a hypobaric chamber, or altitude simulation chamber, that is supposed to create a physical environment similar to that of high altitude with both low oxygen and low ambient air pressure levels.
The final piece is good nutrition. I’ve found that eating a nutritious diet that promotes me feeling my best goes a long way towards how much I can endure on the mountain. There’s also a grape flavored drink mix that I really like called Acli-Mate which contains a set of minerals which is supposed to help prevent altitude sickness and dehydration. I’m sure there are a bunch of other beverages out there that are useful in combating elevation sickness, as well as medicines. Coca leaves, not legally available in the U.S., are widely available in Peru and when brewed into a tea are very helpful to the body when dealing with high altitudes.
Personally, I live within a few hundred feet of sea level and do most of my exercising at elevations less than 1000 ft. Keeping up a regular routine of exercise and training also goes a long way towards increasing endurance levels when entering high altitude situations.
Thank you Aaron. Appreciate all your advise and Help.
Thank you for this guide! We just did St. Helens on Aug 28th and the views of Adams on our way to the summit got me thinking of doing it next year. After reading above, its definitely on the list now!
Hi Jason, that was exactly our thought on the first climb of Mt. St. Helens. Looking to the east on a clear day Mt. Adams just looks ready to be climbed. Depending on weather conditions it’s only moderately more challenging than Mt. St. Helens. More overall distance, more elevation gain, higher summit – I recommend breaking the trip into 2 or 3 days and camping at Lunch Counter to take in the whole experience!
Long Shot! I climbed the South Route Aug 26. If you find a white ice axe (rented from Next Adventure, #72) above Lunch Counter, about half way up to the false summit, please text Mark at 360.823.7108. Thanks!
Do you have a recommended gear list for late summer/early fall? I’m planning to climb early September, and I assume mountaineering boots and crampons are not necessary during this time of year. Would regular hiking shoes and micro-spikes (just in case) be acceptable for a September climb? Would it still be recommended to bring an ice axe, or would I be able to just bring trekking poles?
Hiking boots and micro-spikes would be adequate this time of year. You could also get away with just trekking poles if you don’t plan on glissading. The condition and slope of the snow pack largely determines the necessity of extra gear.
Don’t you have the summer and winter routes backwards? I am looking at a photo i took of the routes on a sign at the trailhead, and the route we took was the left one which is listed as the “South Climb Route”. “Alternate Winter Climb Route” approaches Lunch Counter from the right. If you are interested I can share the photo I am talking about with you.
Thanks for pointing that out! You’re absolutely right. I’ll correct the image and re-upload soon.
Route images updated.
My question is the same as the commenter above. I’m looking to go mid to end of September (only time permittable for me with work) and I was wondering if this was tangible? What do the conditions look like in September?
Hi Matt – The South Climb route is typically still open and climbable in September. Use https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Adams/forecasts/3741 to determine whether the dates you want to climb will have good conditions. It’s possible for storms to roll through the area which dump a lot of snow on the mountain, but it’s likely to be very dry with minimal snow pack. I have personally climbed in September and weathered a 24 hour storm at lunch counter. The area can go from zero snow to at least a foot of horizontal rime ice with temperatures in the single digits and +40 MPH winds. If you go into these conditions with the proper gear you will be OK. Just monitor the conditions going in to your climb.
I’m planning on going mid-September, is this a safe time of year to go? I’m having a hard time about finding weather conditions for that month.
Hi Megan – Generally, yes. One of the best sites for gauging high-elevation weather forecasts is https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Adams/forecasts/3741. Be aware of the temperature, precipitation, and wind speeds on the days of your climb and plan accordingly. Typically, conditions are dry and snow cover is minimal so be prepared for loose rock and scree.
I’ve climbed Mount Adams once in late August and once in early October. Mid September conditions are going to be generally similar to these two times. This can actually be a good time to climb. One advantage to climbing at this time is that the weather is generally good. Also, crowds have thinned considerably compared to earlier in the season. This can make a HUGE difference if you are looking to camp either at Cold Springs or the Lunch Counter (if doing an overnight).
The BIG difference, however, is going to be snow conditions. In September, the south climb is going to be largely snow-free. Although this is usually considered to be a BAD thing, it may or may not be. If you prefer to climb on snow, this may not be the best time to go. Another consideration is that you won’t be able to glissade from Piker’s Peak to the Lunch Counter. You are going to have to hoof it all the way.
But if you are not familiar with the use of an ice axe and crampons, and think that self-arrest has something to do with driving yourself to jail, then this is probably a good time for you to climb Mount Adams. Also, if you are generally better trained at climbing on dirt and rocks, this is a better time to climb. It really all comes down to what you prefer and what you are good atz
is it it safe to solo climb july-august? if so what route would be the best?
Hi Cole, the south side route is safe to climb in the summer. The route is mostly melted out this time of year so it’s important to be aware of rock fall and sections of loose scree. Other routes on Mt Adams are likely to either be heavily crevassed or inadvisable to climb on without a team and appropriate gear. The south side route is non-technical and is the most commonly traversed from spring through fall.
Hey! what pack size do you use?
Hi Cheyenne – Pack size is dependent on the amount of gear you want/need to bring with you on the climb. Most climbers opt to camp at Lunch Counter which requires overnight gear (20-60 liters pack). Climbers who want to attempt the summit in a day will try to go as light as possible (20 liter pack or less). Climbers that are preparing for poor conditions or prefer to bring extra gear may bring a large multi-day pack (60 liters or more). Again, this is largely dependent on your comfort level, gear requirements, and bulkiness of items needing to be packed. I hope this is helpful!
y’all are great for posting this. i just moved to the pacific northwest from the midwest and i’m looking to dip my toes into alpinism and mountaineering. i’ve been looking over your website day after day–can’t wait to take some classes and get after it. thank you!
Welcome! I hope this information has been helpful in any planning you’ve been doing. The pictures and words barely do it justice though, you have to get out and experience it for yourself!